| Samantha 的个人资料Postcards from Mexico照片日志列表 | 帮助 |
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12月30日 The PosadaThis was my first Christmas in Mexico, so I tried to pay special attention to its unique traditions. One thing that I noticed in general is that it is not as commercialized as the rest of North America. I say in general, because I still saw Christmas trees decorated with Coca Cola polar bears, bras, and cellular phone propaganda. There were less houses decorated with lights, but lots of nativity scenes, especially on the main avenue, Reforma.
One of the most popular ways to celebrate Christmas here is with a party known as the Posada. My family and I were invited by good friends to a well known Posada in the small town of Tepotzotlan, northwest of Mexico City. One of the people we were meeting held our place in a very long line, so it wasn't long before we got in and received a large ceramic mug full of steaming hot punch. From there, we took our seats in a courtyard and waited.
The event began with mariachi songs, and a show called the Pastorela, a very humorous play that tells the story of shepherds on their way to visit the newborn Jesus, and how they are tempted by devils on the way. Every time the devils try a different tactic to lure the shepherds away, the Angel Gabriel and his sidekick rush in on their horses to save the day. The actors who played the shepherds were local people, but the other actors came from a variety of special Posada groups. The ambiance was perfect, with the old courtyard, authentic music, unique costumes, and real animals (see photos).
The second part of the event was the actual Posada, where everybody leaves the courtyard and walks down the cobble stone paths, eventually coming back to the door, where they have to sing the Posada song, asking permission to be let in, like Mary, Joseph and Jesus would have done on their journey. Eventually we were let inside and sat down to a delicious dinner of Pozole (corn soup), Tamales, champurrado (spicy hot chocolate), and Mexican sweets... during this time they also broke several piñatas and serenaded us with more Mariachi music.
Despite the hundred or so people there, I found two good friends in the crowd- one, a co-worker, and the other was Marco, a friend from high school in Canada! The world felt so small and the Christmas spirit so encompassing- I couldn't have been more enchanted, finding the warmth of tradition and friendship being shared so openly with my family and I. Post-Familia BluesOn Tuesday morning, I waved towards the direction of a large black van as it drove off with my parents and my brother inside. They were going back to Canada and I returning to my apartment in the North.
The taxi driver saw that I had tears in my eyes and he readily agreed to the price I suggested to cart me and my suitcase home. While cruising haphazardly down the highway, the driver and I had philosophical conversations about my strange Spanish accent, relationships, and some of his racy travel adventures. By the end of the ride I was bursting with laughter and was sad to see him go as well.
When I finally lugged my heavy suitcase up to my apartment, I was greeted with my rabbit's revenge. Supremely annoyed that she had been left in the care of my landlord for two weeks, she had shed everywhere. The hairballs were the size of bunnies themselves, playfully dancing around the clay tile floor. I played with Xempa for a few minutes, picked up the majority of the fur, and tried to get my life back in order.
After a couple of hours of organizing and starting the first of four loads of laundry, I sat down and moped. The time with my family had been full of talking and laughter- they kicked me out of their room on the last night so that they could go to bed- and now I was alone in my freezing cold apartment. I took solace in wearing the Canadian pajamas that they had brought, sucking on a maple lollypop and reading a fluffy Christmas mystery novel.
I don’t regret for a second having moved to Mexico, I love it here. The thing is, there is just no replacement for my family, and that weighs the heaviest on my mind when I think about staying here for longer than the original two years. We’re thousands of kilometers away, but when we saw each other, we just picked right up again. It went too fast.
Anyway, things are getting back to normal. Laundry load number four is drying on the line, my fridge has tortillas and cactus, and Xempa is content to ignore me again, now that I’m "home". 12月8日 Peace and Love Y´all!Time to become another year older and celebrate Christmas, Mexican style, with la familia. I´ll be back in two and a half weeks. Peace and love! 10月31日 HalloweenHappy Birthday Xempa! Halloween marks a year since I bought my little bunny. Well, more like a monstrous gatonejo now, but she´s still the cutest thing in the world.
Last night I couldn´t decide how I should dress for the holiday, so at six o´clock I quickly flipped through an art history book and found my inspiration. I ran over to the grocery store and picked up different coloured foam sheets. With a quick inventory check at home I found a large white piece of cloth and a safety pin. Presto, I had the materials for my costume! Within an hour, I had prepared my outfit. When I walked into work today, people recognized Queen Nefertiti immediately.
The fun and sickening thing about Halloween here is the candy. Sometimes you can get quiet a surprise when you bite into what you think is strawberry taffy, to find that it has been laced with chili. In fact, a large percentage of candy and fruit here includes chili power. I´ve grown pretty fond of it though, especially these spicy lollypops shaped like turkeys. It will be another year until the acidic hole in my tongue dissapears...
10月10日 Real ThanksHere's something I never pictured before moving here- working too hard to be able to celebrate a holiday. In this case, Caity and I were doing so much work on Sunday that we had to skip Thanksgiving. Well, more like postpone it until next Sunday, but it was still a little sad. I remember something like this happening last year as well, the last minute dinner due to the hustle of our lives.
So, this coming Sunday I'm going to run the Terry Fox with 4000 other people at the Canadian Embassy downtown Mexico City. I did the Terry Fox run forever ago, it commemorates the life of Terry and raises money for cancer research. Considering that my mom kicked cancer's butt last year, I feel I'll really have something to feast and give thanks for that night. 9月18日 Independence DayHappy belated Independence Day! We technically celebrated on Saturday the 16th, but the festivities really started about two weeks ago with fireworks blasting from my street every night.
On September 15th of every year, the president of Mexico (in this case Fox) goes to the zocalo, or city centre, and shouts the grito "Mexicanos, viva Mexico!" in honour of the catalyst words that encouraged Mexico to gain its independence from Spain in 1810.
My idea this past year had been to go and see the grito being called out live, however, I started to have reservations. If you haven't already heard in the news, a major road and the zocalo of Mexico City have been taken over by protesters for the past six weeks. I saw the potential for violence if I went with all of the protesters on grito night- Fox saw the same potential and moved the grito to another city for the first time in Mexican history.
In case your curious, the left wing protesters had a convention during the weekend and decided to "elect" their hero Lopez Obrador to be the president of a paralell government, as they won't recognize the "fraudulent" government that will be coming into power. Stay tuned, I have no idea how any of this will play out.
Anyway, I wanted to do something authentic and tranquil for the holiday, so I took an invitation to go to a patrioitic celebration with a family that I know. The party was located in a pueblita or little town named San Ildefonso. As with any family celebration, I encountered the following: amazing amounts of food, mariachi music, and a piñata. The food was first and it's a good thing I didn't eat before I went. We had tacos, pozole (a traditional soup), tamales, tostadas (like flat tacos), tequila, and pastel de tres leches (a cake made with three types of milk). Although it seemed like I was rolling rather than walking afterwards, we got out the patriotic piñata and all took wacks at it until it broke, raining down a multitude of chili flavoured candies.
The day slowly faded into night, and we sat around telling jokes over the crackle of fireworks. The old tio of the family kept looking at me and asking if the children running around were mine, or where my husband was. I patiently repeated over and over that I was not married and don't even have a boyfriend right now. The people at the table politely held back their amazement, especially the older members. One of the cousins asked me how it was possible that I hadn't snagged a husband yet.
The whole night felt so comfortable, almost like I could be with my own family. As we bumped and rambled home from the pueblita I felt a bit more woven into the beautiful fabric of this country. 7月1日 Happy Canada Day?It´s Canada Day in my home and native land. It´s hard to say exactly what that means for me here, but if it´s about cottages, beer, family and the flag, then I have nothing to commemorate the day.
I called Caity the Canuk this morning to ask her if she wanted to come over and have pancakes and maple syrup. She hummed and hawed, and finally said that she was really looking forward to making some salsa and eating it... did I want to have the pancakes tomorrow morning? I pouted and said that tomorrow Canada Day would be over. Eventually we agreed to do it tomorrow and I will have my cactus tacos for dinner tonight.
As if I didn´t already feel that I was abandoning my country, other´s seem to agree. I went to the market this afternoon, and after I asked for my veggies the seller looked at me and said, ¨hey whitey, are you Brazilian¨? I have a strange English/Portuguese accent, so people don´t quite know where to place me.
Finally, it seems that even rejoicing with an ice cold beer is not meant to be. Because the presidential elections are tomorrow, the Ley Seca or Dry Law went into effect last night, which means no alcohol sales until after the voting. I think this also means that you shouldn´t let the policia catch you with your stash at your house party.
The sweet thing about being a Canadian is that you be whoever you want and celebrate in any way that you want. You can eat cactus tacos and drink diet coke and still appreciate the country that gives so much oppertunity to those who are within and away from its borders.
Still... how is it that many days here I feel 100% Canadian, but on the day that I should be glorifying in my native identify, I feel Mexican?
1月9日 Las VacacionesAfter a month of winter wonders, my feet are back on the iceless terra firma of Mexico. Very simply, it was a great holiday with my family. I got well fed by my father, pounced on by my niece and went shopping by my mom. My brother wore the soccer jerseys that I brought him almost every day. Christmas dinner was incredible (as always), but it had some mean competition. One day, to use up leftovers, my dad united Christmas tree pasta with alien pasta. I have never seen a cooler combination. I have probably arrived back as the most patriotic looking canadiense in the country. To honour my gift requests, my parents adorned me with “Canadian” clothing- a warm knitted jacket, hat, scarf, mitts (with the string), all featuring the maple leaf. If I wore them all at once I would definitely scream tourista (see photo). But a fashionable one at least. The final thing I noticed is that Xempa is famous abroad. The cell phone company Telus’ new advertising campaign features bunnies that look exactly like mine, they cracked me up every time I saw them. Click here to see the videos: 12月8日 Home for a RestMexico has been gearing up for Christmas since October. The streets and houses are overwhelmed with a plethora of stereotypical Christmas objects- giant blown up santas, reindeer, blinking lights and Christmas trees. Truly the fruits of globalization. It´s been strange for me to see all these things while I walk around in tank-tops and jeans.
Unfortunetly, I won´t be able to tell you more about Christmas in Mexico, as I am going back to Canada for a month to pass the holidays. Back to drinking water from the tap, heated housing, oxygenated air and my beautiful family. I won´t be updating this space until I get back, as these are Postcards from Mexico...
So Feliz Navidad y Prospero Año Nuevo! Cuidate mucho.
P.S. Last night my friend Ivan wanted to make Smoores (very un-Mexican) so we roasted the marshmellows on my stovetop. For some reason, THAT seemed muy Mexicano 10月23日 "The Others"Last night Caity and I went to a wicked Halloween party in Mexico City. It was put on by some friends of the girls. Lea had caught a cold and couldn't go, so Caity and I stepped up to give some Canadian representation. It's a tough job but...
It was almost impossible to find a costume where I live. I don't think Halloween is big here for adults like it is at home, so I settled on being the ubiquitous Devil, or Diablita. I turned the cape into a skirt, and stuck on a Power Ranger-esque headband...
At the party, there were the usual disguises- many cross-dressing men, brides, princesses, devils, superheros... the strangest thing wasn't seeing Freddy Kruger and Britney Spears dancing beside me, but seeing other foreigners dancing beside me.
After months of being one of a few foreigners in my area, I find it almost bizarre to run into "the others". The first question that people asked each other at the soiree wasn't "what's your name", but "what language do you speak?" In one way, it's cool to find different people who are going through the same experience as you, or who have lived in the country for years. On the other hand, I feel almost uncomfortable, like I'm betraying my adopted country by speaking in English and reminising about the motherland. I think these issues come from being an exchange student before. I ended up speaking Spanish with Englanders and dancing salsa with people from France.
Although the people at the party were certainly a mixed, open-minded crowd, I wanted to cringe when everybody started singing along with the Pinche Gringo song. I find that many Mexicans have a very bitter, cynical view of America, and the song that everybody will shout along with is the Damned American song. I find myself having to defend Americans on a daily basis. I don't like their government or foreign policies, but there are a lot of caring, generous and global thinking people there. I don't know what people assume when they first meet me, but when they find out I'm from Canada, they are quick to tell me how happy they are to hear that, and go on to bash Americans. And talk about their shopping trips to Houston. And wear their Nikies and Abercrombie and Fitch t-shirts.
Looks like it's back to Understanding Diverse Cultures 101 for all of us.
10月19日 My office... and Día de los MuertosI´ve never had an office before. When I arrived to work here, I was surprised to find a beautiful, spacious place to work. No sharing. It´s almost the size of my old apartment :) I cant´t help but question one thing, however. The art.
There was one decoration that came with the office. On the back wall, for everybody to see as they enter, is a large print of the Aztec god of death. It has a caption at the bottom that says ¨The god of death and human sacrifices¨. I love it, but what does this tell people about me when they come to visit?
Mexicans have a very different understanding and appreciation of death than their neighbours to the North though. On November 1st, this country has a huge and spectacular celebration called Día de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead. I have wanted to see it for years. It started as a pre-Hispanic festivity to celebrate children and the dead. Over the centuries it has been transformed into a way for Mexicans to remember the members of their families who have passed away, and to celebrate life. The way that it is observed varies from place to place, but it´s not morbid... it´s a happy time.
People are starting to decorate, and the supermarket is full of death motifs. So maybe the print in my office isn´t so out of place?
10月10日 Canadian Thanksgiving en MéxicoWe have had an unnatural fear of our oven. At the beginning of the year, before we had really tested out our cooking facilities, our American friends Jonah and Kim described in great detail and with elaborate actions how they had a small explosion and singed Jonah’s eyebrows by simply trying to light the gas. I wouldn’t call us skittish, but after their creative rendition of the oven event, we didn’t try to use ours. It seemed that if level headed people like them could detonate that innocent looking appliance, then we were doomed to blow up the apartment. So, we used the stovetop while the oven loomed ominously below. On Friday, all I could think about was the fact that it would be Thanksgiving weekend in Canada. The feast of gobble gobbles, with the turkey, stuffing, turnip, squash, pumpkin pie… and my family. I always loved going home to visit at that time. To ease this bout of homesickness, I decided that we should celebrate Thanksgiving in Mexico. That evening I went to the supermarket and found a lonely squash amongst the pumpkins. I took that to be a sign that I had to make the dinner.
When I started searching for things to put the meal together, it was looking like we would be having KFC with salsa, but through another miracle, I found an imported package of gravy. The last challenge was a face off with the oven. I bought a new lighter, sliced my squash in half and made sure that my roommates were away from the kitchen. I ignited the lighter, held my breath, and turned on the gas. And it lit. The moment was so anti-climatic that I wished there had been just a little flare-up, to justify avoiding it for two months. Eventually, the whole meal came together, except for the dressing (maybe next year) and the pie- we made a compromise with an apple coffee cake instead.
I love Mexican food and the way of life here. I often find myself trying to balance my Canadian way of doing things by trying out Mexican methods. I’m still pretty young, but I worry that I could become stuck in some of my old ways, at the expense of a great cultural experience. I think I’ve done a pretty good job of balancing my two worlds… but Thanksgiving is here to stay.
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