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日志


11月29日

Wedding with a Twist

(I have no idea of what happened to the original post that I had written here, was it the intervention of an internet ghost?)
I´ve recieved a unique wedding invitation from my friend Mari, a girl I worked at the museum with.  She invited me to her civil wedding ceremony this Saturday, which is to be followed by tacos. The idea struck me as a little strange, because going out for tacos is sort or the equivilent of going out for hot dogs.  I asked her what I should wear, and she told me to keep it casual... she´s having the civil ceremony this weekend and a formal church ceremony in the new year.
The seperation of these ceremonies is actually the law here to keep the church out of state matters, and most people have the events arranged closely together.  To entice people to go the religious route, some churches advertise free or discounted group weddings. 
Even though the majority of people here are Catholic, common law marriages are not unheard of.  If you are living in a Union Libre, your partner is called your concubinato (concubine) and after two years, a break-up is legally treated like a divorce.  One should probably worry more about the wrath of the mother-in-law than splitting their assets.
Anyway, no more thoughts on break-ups, it´s off to wedding #4...
11月26日

Tipping

Tipping or giving a propina is ubiquitous here.  I always have change in my wallet for a tipping situation. 
What got me thinking about this topic was Día del Cartero or Mailman Day on November 12th.  Every year the mail man will leave you an envelope reminding you that this is their day and they would like you to show your gratetude by giving a tip, about $5.  Tipping is completely voluntary, but if you don´t you may find that your mail stops arriving as, er, promptly, or fails to even make it to your mailbox. 
At the supermarket, we tip the baggers about $0.20, the same for a ¨car guard¨, about $0.50 for using the bathroom at a nice bar/restaraunt, a bit for mariachis who pass your table at dinner, for singers on busses (no matter how good or bad), 10% for restaurants... we don´t tip cab drivers unless they´ve been particularly helpful. 
Sometimes people are quite aggressive and will tell you when you enter the bathroom or when you´re at a club that they would like their tip right away.  They will even follow you to make sure they get the tip that they want.  Being generous and paying up quickly is always a good course of action, to save myself from embarrassment, and, to help substitute the meagre wages in the informal economy, or the US $4.30 a day minimum wage. 
11月21日

El Frío

It seems that very suddenly this month, the rainy season stopped.  The water droplets and hail of biblical proportions evaporated, as though a giant switch had been thrown in the sky.  In their place of the rain we started to get a cold snap, going from -1 degrees at night to 20 during the day. 

It’s tricky to be prepared for this mountain weather because I have to wear about three layers of clothing every day.  Huge sweaters and mitts in the early mornings, a light long sleeved shirt or jacket for the late morning, and a tank top for the mid afternoon.  The layers come back on as the day turns into night. 

I have never liked cold weather, which is the obvious appeal of a country without snow.  What they neglect to tell you about Mexico is that it can be really chilly in the mountains with this altitude, and people don’t have heating in their homes or workplaces. 

This weekend it got so cold that my hands and feet felt numb.  I could see my breath in my apartment.  I am wearing sweaters to work out at the gym and a coat over my pajamas at night. I have also been confronted with an old problem, which is having cold feet before going to bed.  If my feet are cold, I can’t sleep, so I soak them in a rusty old pot.  My northern stubbornness kept me from buying a heater all of last year and these have been my only solutions for the chill.  

I was recently browsing the aisles of the supermarket, when I spotted the ultimate solution, a deluxe foot soaker, one that promised to warm my popsicle toes before bed.  It almost called out in Spanish to me… until I noticed the very inexpensive little heater beside it, vice number two. 

As fate would have it, I decided on the spot that I couldn’t live another winter waking up to see my breath, so I bought the heater.  I still try not to use it because of all of the power shortages in my area, but after running from the shower to my room, it seems blissful. 

 

CNN Weather for Mexico City- http://weather.cnn.com/weather/forecast.jsp?locCode=MEXX

11月16日

La Language

There are days where I feel like the most brilliant, prolific Spanish speaker in the world.  I know that I’m making mistakes, but they don’t even bother me, I just let the words slip off of my tongue and glide into the air.  On these days I’ll talk about global warming, llamas, the quality of socks that I find in the market, anything. 

Other days, I feel like a clam, a child, frustrated that the thoughts in my head won’t turn into something meaningful in my mouth.  I understand every conversation.  I always get my point across, but I want that point to have the same meaning as I can give it in English. 

I learned how to speak pretty quickly, and then got a bit lazy, letting new vocabulary words come to me rather than purposefully searching for them.  This week I learned the Spanish words for ¨hard drive¨ after my laptop died, and ¨bee¨, because for some reason, the word just kept catching my eye.  That’s usually the case; I seem to hear a certain word over and over so I look it up and learn it. 

The way I learned the majority of my Spanish was through music and the radio.  It was great as an endless supply of speech at regular speed, media that didn’t care if I pronounced things a little strangely or if I paused to use a dictionary. 

No matter how I mangle it, with my abilities in Portuguese and Spanish I can communicate with 470 million more people in the world.  Que padre!

11月11日

Important News of the Week

-  On Thursday a bill was approved to make gay civil unions legal in Mexico City.  Rock on human rights! 

 -  Xempa sometimes grinds her teeth, and it’s just as cringe-worthy hearing it from a rabbit as it is from a human.

  -  Some revolutionary clowns set off three bombs in the city last week, but nobody was hurt, and perhaps surprisingly, I still feel safe

 -  Arnold Schwarzenegger came to Mexico to promote trade, but uh, he still wants a big wall between the two countries.

 -  My neighbourhood is protesting the possibility of a Walmart moving into the area, but I secretly sort of want one.  Agh, glamourized by the sin of foreign capitalism!

11月6日

Wedding Magic

I think I should consider becoming a wedding crasher, just to see how they´re all done here.  Distant cousin Sam would be believable, no
I don´t think there has ever been a wedding that I didn´t like, but Mike and Liliana´s wedding wins hands down under the ritzy/classy catetory.
The scene was Lake Tequesquitengo, about 170km´s south of Mexico City.  It was a small, quiet town where the weather was hot and dry.  We were asked to come to the event at sunset, and what we found was a garden paradise overlooking the sparkling lake below.  Women were dressed in colourful gowns and men in chic tropical casual gear.  As you can see from the photos, every detail was planned perfectly, down to a rose petal carpet. 
I´m not quite sure how they managed to have a Catholic service at night in a garden, but they did.  One of the really interesting Mexican traditions that they followed after the giving of the rings was the exchange of thirteen coins- the groom gives his new wife the money, promising to work hard to take care of her, while the wife in return promises to guard the money and put it to good use for the family.
After a dinner of exquisite food and unlimited martinis, the couple stood on a small bridge over the pool and called for the guests to make toasts with them.  As everybody gave their cheers, fireworks went off in the background, making the moment seem like a movie scene or a fairy tale that had materialized into real life. 
The most fascinating part of the boda was the sheer variety of entertainment.  The ceremony had a string quartet, followed by a caribbean type band at dinner, a jazz band, a romantic soloist, a full Latin Pop/Salsa band, and then a Norteña band.  We danced all night while they passed out the typical props- balloons, hats, masks, glow sticks...
The most magical part came when the band broke into Brazilian Samba simultaneously with the entrance of two Mardi Gras clowns on stilts.  The clowns swayed with the beat of the crowd, making us delightfully dizzy.  Pure magic. 
Mike, not only am I increadibly happy for you and the new phase that you´re embarking on in life, but you have saved me a lot of wedding planning.